
When you drive east from Alice Springs to Queensland, there are only  two ways to go; via Tennant Creek, 500 km to the north and then east  along the Barkly Highway to Mount Isa or via the Plenty Highway. The  Tennant Creek route is bitumenised (asphalt) 400 km longer and, when  you've driven it hundreds of times, exceedingly boring. The Plenty  Highway is a mostly gravel road that commences about 70 km north of The  Alice and although rough in parts, is suitable for four wheel drive  vehicles and trucks with high clearance.
With diesel  fuel at $1.75 per Litre at Alice Springs, it's cheaper to go via the  shorter dusty route and of course, a little quicker. As we hadn't been  across the Plenty Highway for quite a few years, we decided to go that  way saving money and revisiting the route we had taken two or three  times previously, a good opportunity to see if anything had changed.
As  you turn from the Stuart Highway (named after explorer John Stuart)  into the Plenty Highway, you face a number of signs telling you about  the road condition and the need for 4 wheel drive, this time after  Jervois Station. (See photo at left). For at least a few kilometres, it  was bitumenised, something new since our last trip. The Northern  Territory Government extends the bitumen a few hundred metres or  kilometres each year, depending on what funding is available. By 2090,  or perhaps a little sooner, it will be fully bitumenised, but by then it  will be of little benefit to me.
For this first leg of  our journey, we had decided to travel to Cawnpore Lookout, an idyllic  spot (well, idyllic by our standards) somewhere between Boulia, the  first town in western Queensland and Winton, the next along the track.  The lookout is on top of a little hill and the surrounding views are  magic; ancient hills turned into buttes and other rugged shapes by  millions of years of wind, rain and sun. Cawnpore is about 950  kilometres from The Alice and therefore, a good day's drive away.
When  we arrived where we thought Cawnpore should be, it was pitch dark with a  miniscule quarter moon revealing very little of the surrounding hills.  We had a little trouble finding our way, but eventually located the  lookout and drove up the steep slope to park on the top. Not a sound  could be heard except for some crickets. As is common in outback  Australia, the display of stars in the sky was outstanding. The Southern  Cross and Milky Way were particularly bright and a cool breeze came  from the south.
We boiled the billy for coffee and tea,  had a cold dinner and then sat for a couple of hours enjoying the  isolation, peace, tranquility and the beautiful heavenly display before  pushing back the seats in our Prado and going to sleep. As morning  broke, a lone road train (truck with five trailers) rumbled along the  road below towards Boulia and we prepared for another day's drive, this  time to Emerald, a coal mining and cotton growing township close to  Rockhampton near the Queensland coast.
Our new  Landcruiser Prado handled the rough, dusty roads very well and was much  more comfortable than our previous, beloved Toyota Forerunner. We still  have a long way to go.
Robin
PS: Double click graphic to see larger size.